Double Embossed Cladding Installation
Complete guide to installing Kalsi decorative wall panelling over existing surfaces. Suitable for bathrooms, kitchens, and feature walls.
Before You Start
Allow panels to acclimatise in the installation room for at least 48 hours before fitting. Panels should be stored flat and away from direct heat sources. Check all panels for damage or colour variation before cutting — claims cannot be made after installation.
What You'll Need
Tools
- Tape measure
- Spirit level
- Sharp Stanley knife or fine-tooth saw
- Mitre box (for trim cuts)
- Caulking gun
- Pencil and straightedge
- Clean cloth and masking tape
- Drill/driver (for batten method only)
Materials
- Kalsi double embossed wall panels
- Panel adhesive (grab adhesive or panel bond)
- Internal corner trims
- External corner trims (if required)
- Edge / starter trims (J-section)
- Top / base trims (U-channel)
- Colour-matched silicone sealant
- Timber battens 25×50mm (if wall is uneven)
Technical Specifications
Choose Your Fixing Method
Method A: Adhesive (Recommended)
Direct bond to wall. Fastest method for flat, dry surfaces.
- ✓ Plasterboard walls
- ✓ Plastered walls (fully cured)
- ✓ Over existing tiles (if sound)
- ✓ Painted surfaces (key first)
Method B: Timber Battens
For uneven walls or where adhesive isn't suitable.
- ✓ Uneven or rough walls
- ✓ Bare brick or blockwork
- ✓ Damp walls (with membrane)
- ✓ Where services run behind panels
Step 1: Surface Preparation
Assess the wall
Check the wall is dry, stable, and reasonably flat. Use a long spirit level or straightedge — if gaps exceed 3mm, use the batten method. Remove any loose paint, wallpaper, or plaster.
For adhesive method
Lightly sand glossy painted surfaces with 120-grit sandpaper to create a key. Wipe down with a damp cloth and allow to dry. If installing over tiles, clean with a degreaser and ensure no tiles are loose.
For batten method
Fix 25×50mm timber battens horizontally at 400mm centres (maximum). Use a spirit level to ensure battens are plumb and true. Pack behind battens as needed to create a flat surface. Add extra battens around window/door openings and at panel start/end points.
Step 2: Install Starting Trims
Fit internal corner trims
If starting in a corner, fix the internal corner trim first. Apply adhesive to the back of the trim and press firmly into the corner. Check it's plumb with a spirit level. This trim accepts the first panel's cut edge.
Fit base and top trims
Fix U-channel trims at the base (above skirting or floor level) and at the top (at ceiling or desired height). These trims conceal the cut edges and allow for a 5mm expansion gap. In bathrooms, leave a 2-3mm gap at the bottom and seal with silicone.
Fit edge trims (J-section)
Where panels meet a window, door frame, or stop point, fit J-section edge trims. These create a clean termination and hold the panel edge. Cut trims to length with a mitre box for neat corners.
Pro tip: Dry-fit all trims before applying adhesive. Check everything lines up and looks right. It's much easier to adjust trims before they're stuck down.
Step 3: Cut and Fit Panels
Measure and cut the first panel
Measure floor-to-ceiling height (or desired panel height). Deduct 10mm total for expansion (5mm top and bottom). Mark the panel with a pencil and straightedge. Cut with a sharp Stanley knife — score the face side, then snap cleanly. Alternatively, use a fine-tooth saw cutting face-up.
Apply adhesive
Apply grab adhesive in a zigzag pattern to the back of the panel, keeping adhesive 15mm from edges to prevent squeeze-out. Apply beads approximately 25mm apart. Do not apply adhesive to the tongue — this needs to remain clean for the next panel to slot in.
Position the first panel
Slide the cut edge into the corner trim (or J-section). Push the panel firmly against the wall, pressing along its full length to ensure good adhesive contact. Check it's plumb with a spirit level — getting the first panel straight is critical as every subsequent panel follows it.
Continue across the wall
Apply adhesive to the next panel. Angle the tongue into the previous panel's groove and push flat against the wall. Press firmly along the joint to ensure a tight fit. Continue panel by panel across the wall. Wipe away any adhesive that squeezes out immediately with a damp cloth.
Fit the final panel
Measure the remaining gap. Cut the last panel to width, removing material from the tongue side (not the groove side). Slot into the previous panel's groove, then push into the end trim. If the gap is very tight, bow the panel slightly to get it into position.
Step 4: Cutting Around Obstacles
Sockets & Switches
Isolate the power supply first. Remove the faceplate. Mark the panel, cut the opening with a sharp knife, and fit the panel. Reattach the faceplate over the panel using a deeper box or spacer if needed.
Pipes & Taps
Measure the pipe centre position on the panel. Drill a hole 5mm larger than the pipe diameter. Cut a slit from the panel edge to the hole to slide the panel over the pipe. Seal around the pipe with silicone. Use pipe collars for a neat finish.
Windows
Measure the window position on the panel. Mark and cut using a fine-tooth saw or jigsaw. Fit edge trims around the window opening before installing panels. Leave a 2mm gap around the frame and seal with silicone.
Shower Valves
Mark the valve position carefully. Cut the opening slightly oversize (2-3mm all round). Fit the panel and seal behind and around the valve with silicone before fitting the valve cover plate.
Step 5: Sealing (Essential for Wet Areas)
Bathroom & Kitchen Installations
Proper sealing is critical in wet areas. Water behind panels causes damp, mould, and adhesive failure.
- Apply a continuous bead of silicone along the base of panels (where they meet the bath, shower tray, or floor)
- Seal all trim joints with silicone
- Seal around all penetrations (pipes, taps, switches)
- Use colour-matched silicone for visible joints
- Apply masking tape either side of joints before siliconing for clean lines
- Allow 24 hours for silicone to cure before exposing to water
Do Not
- ✗ Use panels as a direct shower enclosure wall (use behind a glass screen)
- ✗ Leave unsealed gaps in wet areas
- ✗ Use acid-cure silicone (use neutral cure only)
- ✗ Install over damp or wet walls without treating the damp first
- ✗ Use abrasive cleaners on the embossed surface
Coverage Guide
| Panel Length | Panels per Pack | m² per Pack | Covers (approx.) |
|---|---|---|---|
| 2700mm | 8 | 5.4m² | ~1 small wall |
| 3000mm | 8 | 6.0m² | ~1 standard wall |
| 4000mm | 6 | 6.0m² | ~1 standard wall |
Allow 10% extra for cuts and waste. For rooms with multiple openings (windows, doors), allow 15%.
Cleaning & Maintenance
Do
Wipe with a soft damp cloth and mild detergent. Non-abrasive bathroom cleaner is fine.
Occasionally
Check silicone seals annually in wet areas. Re-apply if cracked or peeling.
Don't
No bleach, no abrasive pads, no solvent-based cleaners. These will damage the embossed surface.